Diners who think of Brazilian fare as a never-ending parade of beef and more beef are doing themselves a disservice. There’s a whole spectrum of food beyond the all-the-meat-you-can-eat rodizios that populate the city, and Little Brazil Street is the place to find it. Once a market and coffee shop, Emporium Brasil has a minimal atmosphere. The tiled dining room, with midgrade lighting and grey and orange walls, could be any restaurant, anywhere. But with ingredients like palm oil, manioc, and dried codfish, the menu isn’t standard issue.
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